Preparing your new Enforcer for it's maiden voyage
Enforcer boats are available through your local Hobby shops, and even specialty shops such as; Sporting good stores and full size boating dealers. They can also be purchased factory direct in the event that their are no dealers in your area. In some cases they are sold less radio equipment and intended to be installed by the vendor or the end user. It is very important that if you purchase your Enforcer less radio equipment that you have some knowledge on radio installation. It is quite easy to install but since there are so many radio manufactures out there, and each system may differ from another, general radio control experience is recommend.

Boats that are purchased from retail shops can be prepared by that vendor. When a vendor or direct customer receives a new Enforcer, there are a couple of components that were required to be removed prior to shipment. These items must be installed and properly adjusted before operation. Your dealer should be encouraged to prepare your model as well as explain in some detail helpful information to make your first outing pleasurable. This by no means eliminates the need for thoroughly reading the Enforcer operating instruction booklet (supplied with every new Enforcer ready to run boat).

After receiving your Enforcer, carefully remove all of the contents from the box. Be sure to check the ENTIRE box thoroughly as some components can be inserted in smaller boxes that may also be used as fillers. Locate your directions booklet and read through using your model as a reference familiarizing yourself with the parts and terminology.

Before you can operate your Enforcer remove any tape that may have been installed over the carburetor or exhaust for protection. If the boat was purchased with a radio factory installed it will also be necessary to reinstall the antenna in the mount and the rudder push rod. First apply some shaft grease to the flexible cable, this can be done by simply using your fingers. Insert the end of the shaft into the transom or SPD body depending on your model. The shaft will stop about 3/4 of the way in because of a bend in the shaft tube. At this point place a rag or small towel over the prop, and with the palm of your hand and a bit of force shove the cable past this point. The drive will now be able to correctly be installed to the transom mount or the SPD body. The mounting bolts have been reinstalled in their corresponding drive for shipment, remove them and install your drive system as shown in the directions booklet.

Install 12 AA Alkaline batteries in your radio system, 4 in the receiver pack and 8 in the transmitter. Use the directions provided with the radio system to understand this procedure. Once properly installed turn both the transmitter and receiver on. You must understand how this equipment works before operating your Enforcer. The radio system (transmitter) is equipped with special functions for fine tuning referred to as; trims, dual rates, servo reversing, and other functions depending on the brand chosen. These adjustments are small knobs located on the transmitter and could of been jarred during packaging or shipment, so understanding how they work is extremely important. Once the system has been powered up each servo will actuate to the position that corresponds with the transmitted, sticks, wheel, or trigger. As stated, factory installed models have been properly adjusted so the throttle should be ready to go but the steering will need to be readjusted due to rudder removal for shipping.

Checking the Throttle Servo.
Check the throttle first, as you push the left stick forward (2-stick model) or squeeze the trigger (wheel type model) the carburetor should open. When the functions are reversed it should close to the point where the throttle stop arm on the carburetor comes in direct contact with the idle adjustment screw (this is very important for safety reasons). On some wheel type radios it may be necessary to push the trigger and hold it forward to achieve an idle, we suggest hooking a rubber band to the trigger and fasten it to the radio to where it holds the trigger to its forward most position. Refer to the directions and make the proper adjustments if necessary.

Checking the Steering Servo.
With the radio system on, trim the steering servo to the center position, (refer to the radio directions). Remove the screw located on the top of the servo and reinstall the arm/steering rod at about 3:15, install the screw and tighten. Referring to the direction booklet and hook up the control rod end to the rudder arm as shown. You will notice a small yellow band on both of the rod ends, these bands must be pulled up, they are used to keep the rod ends secured during operation. When making the rudder adjustment, allow the rudder to be set a couple of degrees to the left to compensate for propeller torque, refer to the directions for a better explanation. Refer back to the directions for preparations for operating you Enforcer at this point, and follow all of our suggestions, they are their to insure your success. We have designed this equipment to allow for making adjustments for different water conditions as well operators habits. We can only give you a starting point for what we feel is adequate for the novice, and once you have some operating time under your belt, feel free to experiment making adjustments that best suit you. Most important READ and UNDERSTAND the directions and familiarize yourself with the functions of your Enforcer BEFORE you operate it, this will insure that you have a safe and fun model boating future.

How long does it take to get my Enforcer?
Even though we produce 3 complete ready to run boats per day, Warehouse Hobbies can get as far as four weeks behind in production. We urge that you place summer boats orders in February. Our busiest months are from May through September. Return to top
Oil mixture (premix)?

Oil mixture (premix)?
This is probably the most important question about your Enforcer boat or engine. We recommend Amsoil at a 32 -1 mixture (4 ounces of oil per gallon of gasoline)

What octane of gas should I use?
We recommend no more than 93 octane (premium unleaded). During the winter months in the northern climate some gasoline is produced with alcohol. Avoid this as it will damage the water pumps diaphragms.

How often do I grease the drive cable?
We recommend greasing the drive shaft before each daily run. Use a good marine grease or water pump grease. We recommend Amsoil bearing grease.
It is good practice to remove your drive shaft at day's end, clean off remaining grease and water, lube it with a good spray oil and leave it out of the boat until the next run. Using this method, there will be no doubt whether it was greased or not.

How far will my radio go? (range)
The FCC allows only 1/4 watt of power for non-licensed radio operators. That is good for roughly 1/4 of a mile range, 100 yards or the length of a football field. There is no reason to be that far away from your model, you are more apt to lose sight coordination before signal. Keep your model no more than 150 feet from you at all times.

What's better: a stick radio or wheel?
It's a personal decision.
If you run cars and are accustomed to a wheel radio, use one.
If you are used to stick (or never tried either), sticks seem to be a little easier for the novice.

Keep in mind, if you are using a wheel type radio and will be installing it yourself, the trigger or throttle control can be a little tricky. They have a forward movement for braking that is not needed for model boating. It is very important that the throttle close by means of trigger release, not manually holding it forward. Manually holding it forward is not a safe practice. Try to use a radio that gives you onboard features of zero to full throttle adjustment capability.

What type of drive system should I use?
This is a very good question, and very important. If you are using your Enforcer or Deep Vee for recreation with a Stock, Mid-Mod, or even a Pro-Modified engine the combination strut and rudder assembly (with Stand-Off), kit# RH4016 will work well with all Enforcer hulls and most other manufactures hulls of this type. The system will provide you with adequate steering and prop shaft adjustability. It will require a large (1/4) scale type servo for rudder movement if your are using a Mid or Pro-Modified engine.

If you have intentions of using your model in competition or you want the best performance out of your hull, I highly recommend the SPD III complete drive system with the UNI-STRUT adjustable offset rudder system. This system will enable you to finely tune your boats running attitude at high speeds, by allowing the boat to maintain a balance point between the aft of the hulls running surface and the SPD III's drive bottom.

For a more detailed description on how this unit functions, visit our Technical Bulletins section on this site, or call me direct at: 1 (863) 699-1231 Monday thru Friday between 10:00am and 5:30pm Est.

What is better: Nicads or batteries?
The majority of Enforcer boats sold are believed to be used for recreation, and in many cases are purchased by a novice modeler. I recommend that AA alkaline batteries be used in both the transmitter and receiver. If you are an experienced r/c'er, you are most likely aware of the maintenance required in taking care of your Nicads. (See below for details).

My recommendation for the use of batteries over Nicads is:
When a battery starts to lose power it is more gradual; in most cases the radio seems to act funny, example: When you give it a command there is a slight delay or a "glitch" and the boat might lurch or not carry out the command. In most cases you will regain control, but is a warning sign that your batteries are dying. It will normally occur as the distance between you and your boat increases and the required signal becomes weaker.

In the case of Nicads, as they lose power it is more drastic, meaning you can have complete control for one minute, then nothing. However, if you are, or become experienced with Nicads they are an excellent form of power, since they can be charged over and over again.

"The care of Nicads" - It is not difficult to maintain Nicad batteries, but it is extremely important that you follow the manufacturers specifications. Use the proper charging source and full charging time required. You just don't plug them in when you feel like playing, wondering if they still have something left from the last time you used your boat, whether it was last week or last month. If you do, you're asking for trouble. Use a good charger, such as a peek detecting charger. This is a real benefit because the manufacture designed these units to charge the Nicads to their fullest capacity and then go into trickle charge mode, (a low dose of voltage).

Another feature, known as "discharge" is something I feel is very important.
Improper discharging is the biggest cause of Nicad failure. Let me explain. As you charge your Nicads you are actually charging multiple batteries, 4 or 6 in most cases. Each time you charge them they develop a "memory". If not properly discharged, the level of power in each cell starts to differ. What happens, for example, cell number 1 has a higher level of power than 2 through 6, cell 1 becomes fully charged first, reaches capacity and becomes somewhat of a resistor, as they can only hold their capacity in power storage, at that point they will overheat and even vent, causing damage to that cell. Needless to say the other cells are not up to capacity, therefore the amount of usage that Nicad pack will give you will be less than expected. If you continue to charge the pack time and time again it will just become worse. As one or multiple cells become damaged with a "memory", the better cells try to charge the weaker cells causing the pack to become less and less efficient as the charges go on. With proper charging and discharging this can be avoided; I have Nicad packs that are over 5 years old, you just have to take care of them.

How do I store my boat for the winter?
Winter in Florida really has no meaning, it gets cool but our lakes do not freeze over. I've consulted with a few Northern customers over the years and here's some great information.
1)- Drain ALL of the gas from the fuel tank and lines. You can remove the fuel line (s) to do this.
2)- Using a spray oil such as Amsoil metal protectant, squirt a shot of lube into the fuel intake fitting on the carb. Replace the fuel line (s).
3)- Remove the spark plug, and spray some Amsoil metal protectant (or equivalent) into the plug opening. Slowly pull the starter rope as you are spraying, this will allow oil to reach the bottom end of the engine.
WARNING- MAKE SURE THE SPARK PLUG WIRE IS OUT OF THE WAY AND YOU ONLY PULL SLIGHTLY SO NO SPARK IS GENERATED IN PRESENCE OF THE SPRAY OIL!
4)- Reinstall the spark plug, leaving the plug wire disconnected.
5)- Remove all your batteries or Nicads and store them separately as recommended by the manufacturer.
6)-Remove your drive cable assembly, clean and re-lubricate using your spray oil. It's a good idea to leave oil on the cable assembly and put it into a plastic bag.
7)- Using your spray oil inject some oil into the shaft tube at the rear of the boat, while the boat is held nose down, this will allow oil to run into the clutch drum.
8)- Use your denatured alcohol and clean any tape residue off of the radio box and lid, (which we're sure you do after each use, like the directions say).
9)- Give your T-cable oilier one last shot, cover your baby with a clean dry cloth, and put her in a warm dry place.
10)- OK, you think it's tough for you guys, think about us and our phones, at least call and wish us a Merry Christmas, or you can even start your new Enforcer winter project.
Hear ya in the spring,
Tony C.

Is my Homelite engine a 25 or 30cc?
Boy, is this a Frequently Asked Question.
To see if your engine is a 25 or 30cc, look into the exhaust port. If there is a bar (metal post) in the center of the port, vertical your engine is a 25cc. If there is none it is a 30cc.
Most model manufacturers purchase their engines from garden stores or discount houses.
The question needs to be asked... Are you using "Recon engines"
There are many recons out there, beware of these engines. A recon is a reconditioned engine that got sent back to Homelite for repair. In some cases they are a great buy, but I purchased 50 of these units at one time to evaluate and only 18 of them showed no signs of previous operation. The other ones were pretty well scratched up and some even had grass stuck in the powerhead. It's a pig in a poke as they would say.

If you think about it, what would be the most common reason that a line trimmer be returned? You guessed it, no oil in the gas. Homelite does a good job in getting these engines back to good running condition, for their intended purpose. A seized engine would be rebuilt with new ring (s) and reassembled complete with piston and cylinder scratches. If you are cutting the lawn or just want to make a fun toy these could be good deals, but if performance is in your future, "Buyer Beware"

As a manufacturer or dealer, the requirements to purchase direct through Homelite is a high financial obligation. At Warehouse Hobbies we meet this obligation and purchase only brand new powerheads to be used as the basis of our Enforcer production engines. You can be certain of the highest in quality from Enforcer Mfg.

How To Adjust Your Carburetor?
A Bit of Theory
You may have spent a few hours trying to adjust or re-adjust your boats carburetor, and in most cases you might managed to get your boat running but really didn’t know how you did it… Or in some cases, you just can’t seem to get it right, either your boat idles fine, or runs well wide open, but just won’t do both.
Believe it or not, the carburetor on your boat is a highly technical well engineered machine. The carburetors that are used on Enforcer boat engines are very similar in design to those used on full size outboard marine engines, snow mobiles, and personnel watercraft.

Fuel Pump
Enforcer carburetors utilize a vacuum actuated fuel pump that is built in carburetors and is powered by the negative and positive pulse that is created when the engine is in operation. When the piston is on the upstroke cycle, the crank case pressure becomes negative, vacuum is created. On the down stroke a positive pressure is created. Each engine block has a passageway that allows this changing pulse to enter the intake manifold and carburetor through a specific hole, usually located on the backside of the carburetor, in turn this operates the pump in the carb. The fuel pump gives your engine more stability by providing a constant supply of fuel.

Pulse port hole
Stock Carburetor Gasket (ENG10M)

Note: If your are using a machined intake manifold (CA5030) with your "Big Bore" Carburetor (CA5003), the small hole also must be facing upward as well as the Walbro logo on top of the carburetor. This gasket between the carburetor and the intake manifold must be installed with the tiny hole facing upwards. This small hole allows crankcase pressures to flow to the carburetors fuel pump.

Carburetor Adjustments
An engine will perform poorly if the fuel mixture adjustments are off allowing too much or too little fuel to be metered, the engine may still start, but may not idle well or reach the correct level of performance.
All of today’s carburetors have 3 screw adjustments. There is the high speed needle, the low speed needle, and the butterfly adjustment, or also referred to as the “ main idle adjustment screw”. First you must know the location of these screws. I suggest that you refer to your owners manual to familiarize yourself with the carburetor that you have. Shown here are some popular Enforcer carbs.
Normally the low speed needle is that closest to the engine. The high speed needle is commonly found to the right of the low speed needle, or referred to as the closest to the hull. The main idle adjust screw is on the top side of the carburetor and generally much larger in size.

Stock Carburetor (Enforcer Hybrid)

Enforcer "Big Bore" Carburetor (Hybrid Mid-Mod and Pro-Mod)

Zenoah Carburetor (EZ23HO, EZ23PRO, RC230G air-cooled)

MAKING THE CORRECT ADJUSTMENTS
In most cases manufacturers adjust their engines carbs to run on the rich side. This means allowing more fuel to enter the engine resulting in less performance, but also allowing the engine to be initially operated at less than 100 percent for the required break in time. Once the first few tanks of gas have been used, you are ready to get more performance out of your engine. Follow the next few steps and you will be a pro at carburetor adjusting in no time.

1– Close both low and high speed needle valves. Do not close tightly, just until you feel them seat.
2– Open the low speed needle 1 1/2 turns and the high speed needle the same.
3– Adjust the butterfly or main idle screw so when the screw comes in contact with the throttle assembly it opens it about 1/8 “. This will cause the engine to idle high, but necessary for proper adjustment.
4– Supply water to the engine if it is water cooled. It is best to allow the boat to draw from a remote source such as a bucket if your boat has a water pump. A simple piece of tubing can be plugged into the water inlet.
5– With your boat secure on the stand, carefully start the engine. Be extremely careful of the spinning propeller. Always stay to the side of the boat and away from the spinning prop. Never have loose clothing or tools present in the prop area.
6– Starting with the low speed needle turn it in “clockwise” and listen as the rpm’s go up. There will be a point that a “woowing” sound will be present, just before the engine stalls out. Now back the needle back to the 1 1/2 turn out starting point and do it again until you can distinctly hear that sound. The next time when you hear that “wooing” sound, turn the screw out about 1/4 turn from that point. The engine will now start to operate at high idle, but more smoothly.

What we just did is cause the engine to go to a lean idle state, (too little fuel) at the low end and quit. The “wooing” sound I am referring to is to give you a present indication of what a lean state in a two cycle engine will sound like. The sound is caused by too little fuel being drawn into the combustion chamber resulting in a situation where the engine can not sustain operation. The fuel is being burnt off at a rate greater than the combustion timing is calling for, and the engine starts to pulsate. By realizing this sound, you will now be able to identify when your engine is too lean at low end.

7– Once you have adjusted your low end needle you can now simple adjust the main idle screw to the point that the clutch disengages or is recommended by the engine manufacturer. On high performance engines with clutches I suggest that the idle be set with prop in the water, this will allow the RPM’s to be set at a higher level, which is normally necessary for engines that have been modified. If set too low a race prepared engine will tend to “load up” and stall.

8– The high speed needle is a bit trickier… The high speed needle MUST be set under load. When an engine is put in a loaded situation they tend to lean out, therefore it is more of a guess than a science if you were to try to adjust on land. The best way to properly adjust the high speed needle is to launch the boat, get it up to temperature, a couple of laps at high speed will do, and then return to shore making small 1/8 turn increments (clockwise) starting from 1 1/2 turns out, followed by another lap or two. Do this until your boat has reached its top speed, or until you lean out… Lean out? No problem just open it a hair to where it was just before the last adjustment. All kidding aside, a lean indication on top end is indicated by a couple of things. First it is best to throttle up quickly, if the engine _ _ it’s and gets but the boat slows down and falls off pace after a lap or two you are boarder line lean. Just back it off a smidge. If it bog’s or dies when you open throttle from slow to full you are way lean, again back the needle out and give it another go. Running the engine too lean at the top end can and will cause engine damage or severely shorten an engines life span if allowed to run in this state
A rich top end is opposite, the boat will have a raspy sound at top end and not go as fast as it may be designed to go. This is not a bad thing, you may fowl a plug or two each season, but generally no real damage will come from this. Some boaters actually prefer to operate their models on the rich side.
The best way to check and make sure your engine is operating correctly at top end is to “read the plug”, this is pretty easy to do. Remove the spark plug and clean the electrode with a wire brush, get it as shinny as possible. Make sure there is no wire pieces stuck in the plug when you reinstall it. Run your boat for a half a dozen laps or so at top speed. Return to shore and remove the plug when it cools down. Look at the electrode, is should be a medium brown in color. This means that all is well with both carburetor settings and choice of pre-mix oil. If the electrode is white or grayish in color, you are running too lean. Richen the high speed needle and perform the plug check once again. Do this until the plug reads the safe color.

That’s about all I can do on this end, the rest is up to you.
Good Luck and happy boating,
Tony Castronovo
President, Warehouse Hobbies Inc.